Friday, November 13, 2020

2018 Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello

A few weeks ago, my husband brought home this wine from our local purveyor, Cask and Keg. We drank it with one of our meals and I was intrigued by the dark ruby-purple color of the wine and the taste that reminded me of Barbera, but I wasn't really paying attention. It tasted very good. So my curiosity was peaked and I decided to spend some time today to do a little research into what the Susumiello grape is all about. I turned to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, J. Harding and J. Vouillamoz for my first introduction to this grape variety.
Susumeniello is an ancient variety, a native Puglia grape that grows in the areas northwest and southeast of the port of Brindisi and more generally throughout the Salento. DNA analysis conducted in 2007 revealed that Susumeniello is the result of a presumably natural cross between the Italian leading variety Garganega x Uva Sacra (table grape). I mentioned this fact outloud to my husband who knows that I passionately dislike Garganega. He also expressed surprise that a red grape could be a cross between a white grape and a table grape, until I mentioned that Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Jancis Robinson also wrote that Garganega is one of the Founder Varieties, Susumaniello is one of the offspring.
Here is what the grape looks like:2
During the first ten years after planting, Susumaniello can be very prolific. Originally it was used as a blending grape, but after the vine ages, the crop size is dramatically reduced so in recent years, the Susumaniello with it's high sugar content and good acidity has been vinified as a single varietal wine.
The price is pocketbook friendly at $21.89. I need to taste this wine again!
References:
1. J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours, pg 1019-1020, Allen Lane 2012 ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2.
2. Illustration from: Wein Plus, Susumaniello.
3. Italy Abroad, Italian wine and grape guide: Susumaniello.
4. Vini di Puglia, Minor Red Grapes.

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