Chenin Blanc Pairing

It's no secret that we love Chenin Blanc. It's difficult to pinpoint when we began this love affair with Chenin Blanc but Domaine Huet definitely plays a large part as well as Ken Forrester's Petit Chenin. I've blogged about it before: Ken Forrester's 2009 Petit Chenin and 2010 Domaine Huet Le Mont.
Chenin Blanc pairs so perfectly with fresh oysters and seafood and seafood is what naturally comes to mind when pairing white wines.
Recently, however, we had leftover pork ribs with a dry rub and two bottles of Chenin Blanc. One was our 2019 Chenin Blanc and the other was a 2010 Domaine Huet Le Mont. Since we enjoy food and wine pairings, we thought why not try it with the two Chenins. To our surprise, the wines went very well with the dry rub pork ribs. Our assessment to this pairing was that our Chenin has a good bit of acidity that cut through the pork ribs and made it an unlikely but delicious pairing!

Coincidentally, one of our customers who came back to bring her sister and purchase more wines, recounted that she and her husband paired our 2019 Chenin Blanc with dry rub pork ribs! She mentioned that although her husband is not a wine drinker, he enjoyed the Chenin with the ribs that he prepared!

Vintage 2026: Mid-April Frost and Freeze Conditions

Last week, we were having absolutely wonderful warm weather and then our friend, a vineyard manager at another winery alerted us to a possible frost and freeze occuring in our area on Monday morning, April 20 and Tuesday morning, April 21. We did have some of our varieties in the wooly bud stage so we were concerned. When we got there on Monday, everything seemed okay and then on Tuesday, I took photos of our buds.

Variety
Auxerrois
Chenin Blanc
Chardonnay
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Franc
Barbera

I think they are fine. It's not at all like the freeze we had on May 18, 2023. However, I did see in my wine news feed that areas to the south of us experienced what we had in May 2023. It's a devastating feeling.

Oak Barrel Tannins Fingerprinted

Recently, I came across an article on my wine feed titled, "Tannins from oak barrels that flavor wine are ‘fingerprinted’ by researchers" which peaked my interest.
It's been known that wine aged in oak barrels can contribute flavors described as coconut, vanilla, spice, caramel and smoke that can affect the taste and mouthfeel of wine. Tannins also come from grape skins and which tannin, grape skins or oak wood contributed to the specific wine flavor was something that remained difficult to quantify.
Recently, scientists at Penn State developed a way to chemically characterize and identify individual tannins in wine that come from oak barrels and contribute to its flavor profile.
The word "tannin" is usually mentioned when speaking about red wines. There are two major types of tannins, hydrolysable tannins (HTs) and condensed tannins (CTs) found in foods and beverages. There are two major types of HTs, the ellagitannins (ET) and gallotannins (GT).
Why are these tannins of especial interest in winemaking?

• HTs affect both chemical stability and sensory quality
• HTs are generally exogenous to wines, primarily introduced from oak and other wood species through barrel aging or the use of oak adjuncts such as chips
• HTs compounds enhance wine antioxidant capacity, stabilize anthocyanin pigments, and contribute to mouthfeel characteristics
• HTs have been described as imparting a smooth, velvety astringency

For the above reasons, HTs are essential for understanding wine composition and maturation, and a rapid measurement method is particularly valuable for achieving quick analytical turnaround in industry settings.
However, measuring and quantifying these HTs has traditionally been time consuming, but using in-source fragmentation (ISF) instead of acid-hydrolysis (AH) generated class-specific ions directly from all HT structures and retained the chromatographic profile of the native HTs.
Realizing the advantage of using ISF, the researchers aimed to do the following:

• (1) Introduce and validate a rapid, robust in-source fragmentation (ISF) method, called hydrolysable tannin fragmentation fingerprinting (H-TFF) for quantifying ellagitannins and gallotannins, using both quadrupole time-of-flight (QTOF) and triple quadrupole mass spectrometry (QQQ) platforms
• (2) Compare conventional acid hydrolysis (AH) methods with H-TFF for quantifying HTs across both QTOF and QQQ instruments
• (3) Characterize oak chip extracts prepared in both methanol and wine matrices using the H-TFF method, enabling compound class-level tannin profiling
• (4) Integrate H-TFF with an existing condensed tannin fragmentation fingerprinting (C-TFF) method to generate a comprehensive tannin composition fingerprint across a set of oak-treated wines

To validate their method, the team used cross-platform comparisons between QTOF and QQQ and comparison to AH, using 22 red and 20 white wines. Their research involved a collaboration with Gallo, a California-based winery that provided some of the 22 red and 20 white wines analyzed in the study.

The team conducted experiments using 15 commercial oak chip products representing three types of oak used for wine-aging barrels, French oak, Hungarian oak and American oak and five toast levels.
After adding the various types of oak chips to wine samples, the researchers could then characterize the differences in hydrolysable tannins in those treated wines to determine if their method was consistent with linearity, limit of detection (LOD), accuracy, precision, and matrix interference.
The newly developed and validated H-TFF method was first applied to these 15 oak chip samples extracted in 200-proof ethanol to quantify the ET and GT in these extracts.
Red base wine (RB) and white base wine (WB) with minimal oak addition were used for calibration curve dilutions and method validation of the H-TFF.
Quantification was performed using the calibration curves prepared in a methanol-based model solution to minimize matrix effects and improve accuracy. The results revealed that, regardless of toast level, French oak contained the highest concentrations of both ellagitannins and gallotannins, followed by Hungarian oak and American oak .
In summary, the researchers found that H-TFF enables the rapid, non-destructive analysis of ellagitannins and gallotannins, offering a practical alternative to conventional AH.
References:
1. Penn State, Tannins from oak barrels that flavor wine are ‘fingerprinted’ by researcher.
2. Yanxin Lin, Bruce S. Pan, Robert (Qiang) Siu, and Misha T. Kwasniewski, "High-throughput fingerprinting of hydrolysable tannins in wine and oak wood using in-source fragmentation on QTOF and QQQ platforms", Food Chemistry, Volume 507, 1 April 2026, 148170.

Vintage 2026: Vineyard Work

If good weather prevails in March, we begin our vineyard work and this year it was very cold and snowy until the last week in March when we were able to get back into the vineyard. We began with work that we didn't get a chance to finish at the end of last year, namely lowering our nets and Velcroing the nets to our irrigation wire. We began our work in our red varieties and as of today, we've lowered 24 rows of nets and done the first pass of pruning the tops of last year's canes and making the first cut on last year's fruiting cane.
We had help from one of our friends, Ted, who came to help us with the removal of last year's canes. We have also been aided by the very nice weather that we've been having which is a change from previous years when April showers bring May flowers.
Another change we made this year was to remove our cuttings which we have stacked neatly on each linepost. So, last Thursday, Ted and our friend Mary, came to help us remove the cuttings from the vineyard. They removed all of the cuttings from 14 rows of the vineyard so we are feeling pretty good about the work that has been done so far.
There is more good weather coming up so hopefully we can get to doing the pruning that we need to do before budbreak!

2021 Rivetto Langhe Nascetta Lirano Nascetta

A few weeks ago, my husband brought out one of his recent purchases, a 2021 Rivetto Langhe Nascetta Lirano Nascetta.
It is a white wine from the Piedmont region that almost went extinct. As nebbiolo became the favored grape for wine making in Piedmont, the Nascetta, a delicate, unstable, difficult to cultivate grape with unpredictable yields, gradually disappeared from the vineyard.
The person credited with the revival of Nascetta is Elvio Cogno. In 1993 Elvio Cogno and Valter Fissore, together with other producers from Novello, accepted an unusual invitation from journalist Armando Gambera and uncorked a few bottles of Nascetta from 1986. The Nascetta astounded everyone for its fine and elegant profile, tasting very much like a Sauterne.
In 1994, not one vineyard with 100% Nascetta could be found so the grapes had to be cherry-picked from among the vineyards throughout Novello in order to make the 1994 vintage of Nascetta which consisted of 800 bottles made by Elvio Cogno.
In 2002, Nascetta became a DOC “Langhe” wine. In 2010, it obtained the most prestigious recognition of its own appellation, “Langhe Nas-cetta of the Township of Novello,” whose production is only authorized within the confines of the township of Novello and using 100% Nascetta.
The Rivetto Nascetta to me had a distinct aroma reminiscent of Viognier. The wine was mascerated on it's skin for 72 hours. I didn't really appreciate the style of this wine but I need to give it another try with an open mind if not an appreciation of being a grape rescued from near extinction.
References:
1. Azienda Agricola Cogno, The story of Nascetta, January 1, 2019.

Vintage 2026: March Pruning Time is Here

The winter was a cold and very snowy one but for the last few weeks, we have had nice enough weather to get out into the vineyard to begin our pruning duties for this vintage. We typically begin by removing all of the Agfast that we've put on the vines to keep the growing shoot straight. It's good during the growing year, but bad when we have to remove it. There are literally thousands of these little black ties in the vineyard which makes removing them a time consuming task that can take 2 weeks or so.
We thought we would try something different this year. We began by cutting the tops of last year's shoots, which have now hardened into canes. It is at this point that we remove the Agfast. My husband cuts last year's fruiting cane, leaving the few shoots that he deems will become this year's fruiting cane.

We tested our new method on our red varieties, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the Barbera. The reds can be challenging because the tendrils are tough and difficult to remove from the trellis wire. It's a good thing to tackle this first when we are anxious to get back into the vineyard.
We have a marker in the middle of the vineyard so instead of working the entire 800 feet, we work to the marker and then work our way back. In this manner, we can do 4 half rows of the vineyard in one shift, finishing the other half of the row on our second shift.
In the one week that we've been in the vineyard, we've managed to get all of the red varieties, 6 rows, to the point of the final pruning. The method that we are using now allows us to go into the vineyard to work even if it is raining. We can remove the shoots that have been cut from the live part of the vine. This is definitely a game changer for us.
I hope that this method that we are using allows us to get the vineyard ready for bud break sooner than we've done in the past. Crossing my fingers!

Gamet Champagne

We recently got together with our friends who love oysters and champagne. She really likes Pinot Meunier based champagnes so my husband procured this Gamet champagne with them in mind.
The Gamet is made with 85% Pinot Meunier and 15% Pinot Noir. Right off the bat all of us loved this champagne. The Pinot Meunier brought a full-bodied richness to the champagne and it paired so well with the oysters. The champagne is made with indigenous yeast and fermented for 24 monthas in stainless steel. The finished champagne was disgorged in June 2024 and 4 g/L dosage was added at that time.
This champagne was imported by Skurnik and on their website, I found more information about the family. Their story is about two families farming on different banks of the Marne and their descendants.
Shortly after World War I, two women, Victoire Garnier on the left bank of the Marne and Berthe Heucq on the right bank of the Marne began farming the land that they owned and making recoltant manipulant (grower owned) champagnes.
In the 1950s Victoire Garnier's original holdings on the left bank of the Marne, were expanded into the Mardeuil by her grandson, François Gamet. Meanwhile on the right bank of the Marne, Berthe Heucq’s grandson Robert was growing his family’s holdings in Fleury-la-Rivière, tending vines and bottling his own wines.
In 1993, Fabienne Heucq, Robert’s daughter, and Philippe, the son of François Gamet met and fell in love. They had a daughter, Marianne. Since 2018, Marianne is the fourth generation champagne maker, taking over the running of the estate and continuing the tradition of being a recoltant manipulant since it's inception.
Marianne’s brother, Jean-François is a trained enologist currently working in Bordeaux. He travels back home to assist his sister and parents with harvest, blending, and bottling.
Champagne Gamet remains a grower-producer, with vineyards totaling eight hectares in three villages – Mardeuil on the left bank and Fleury-la-Rivière and Damery on the right bank.
References:
1. Skurnik Wines and Spirits, Gamet
2. Terroir, Gamet.

Vintage 2026: March Madness

The weather is still top of mind for us. Last week on Tuesday, March 10, we had temperatures that reached the 70's. This helped to melt some of the snow that had remained on the ground since late January. However, after the one day of unseasonably warm weather, we have had cold, windy days that has kept us from returning to vineyard work.
I gauge the coming of spring by the crocuses that bloom in March, but so far those first signs of spring are no where to be seen in our neck of the woods. Today we are under gale force wind warnings and I can hear the gusts as I write this blog.
I am crossing my fingers for warm weather in our future, we need to get to the vineyard to begin our pruning duties!

2020 Passionfruit Estate Chardonnay

We are wondering when all of this snow will melt! In the meantime, my husband and I have been tasting our new release which is a 2020 Chardonnay.
In 2020, we had one of the best ripening years and the Chardonnay came in with 23.5 Brix, pH 3.0 and titratable acids at 10.0 We fermented our Chardonnay with a selected yeast and in 2020, we used CX9. For this vintage, we had the help of Jonathan Edwards and his crew and did the fermentation at his facility.
On the evening that we tasted our Chardonnay, my husband made a Coconut Fish and Tomato Bake with fresh local caught striped bass that he purchased from Mason's Island.

We had our friends over for dinner. It was a decidedly Asian leaning dinner and we began with an appetizer of spring rolls. The coconut fish paired with our Chardonnay went very nicely! The fish was flavored with unsweetened coconut milk, fresh ginger, turmeric, red pepper flakes, honey, tomatoes, cilantro and a fresh squeeze of lime.
Our Chardonnay was best when the temperature reached around 52 degrees, then the aromas and the flavors were more apparent. The acidity of the wine worked well with the fish and the Asian flavors brought by the coconut milk, the punch from the red pepper flakes and the freshness of the cilantro, ginger and lime. Our friends brought over a strawberry shortcake which was the perfect ending!

Noguchi Naohiko - God of Sake

Recently, we were watching NHK World and saw this special episode on Noguchi Naohiko, a 93 year old sake brewer. Any time we hear of people who are older than we are and still working, we are inspired! Even at 93, Noguchi is still involved in sake making. I found this photo of him on the online publication, Imbibe, where the title of the article was "75 Person to Watch".¹

Noguchi has been making sake since 1949. He became a Master Toji (sake brewmaster) at the age of 28 and is credited with reviving the Yamahai style of sake brewing. Yamahai along with Kimoto describe historical methods of brewing sake using natural lactic acid bacteria in order to begin the sake making process. The difference between the Kimoto and the Yamahai historical sake brewing process is that the Kimoto has a step called yama-oroshi which entails the grinding of steamed rice and koji rice with a paddle called a kai before insertion into a tank to develop into yeast starter. It’s hard work that requires stirring the rice every two to three hours for an entire day. The Yamahai process omits the yama-oroshi step yet still produces a deep, rich flavor.
Noguchi is known as the "god of sake". The Noguchi Naohiki Sake Institute was founded in 2017 with the goal of training a new generation of sake masters.
The episode about Noguchi inspired us to look into purchasing some of the sake he made. My husband was able to purchase this 2023 Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute. The back label explained that this sake is a Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu meaning that it is unfiltered, unpasteurised, and undiluted. The rice, water and yeast are all local. We paired the sake with a salmon dish. I tasted a lot of umami in this sake which made it a little different from the typical light, fruity sakes that we have with sushi. Indeed, the recommendation is to have this sake with oily fish and big, rich dishes. The alcohol content of this sake was a surprising 17%. As the sake warmed it became mellower, releasing more of the floral aromatics. I felt privileged to have tasted a sake made by Noguchi Naohiko, God of Sake!
References:
1. Imbibe, Imbibe 75 Person to Watch: Noguchi Naohiko, January 2, 2026.
2. SakeTimes, SAKE 101: Kimoto and Yamahai, May 27, 2021.
3. Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute.

Valentine's Day Dinner and Wine

Here is a somewhat belated post on what we did on Valentine's Day. We typically celebrate Valentine's Day with our Greek friends, it was a regular event that alternated homes as we each tried to outdo the other with the meal and the wine. One year, our friends invited us to their home and called it "Chez Finesse" and had a high end restaurant style menu. But this year they had another engagement so that left us to fend for ourselves.
My husband decided to make duck with fig sauce. I love duck! Growing up in Hawaii, there wasn't much of a chance to eat duck so I wonder where my love of duck came from.

Duck and pinot noir is the perfect pairing and on Valentine's day, my husband descended into his cellar to bring up this 1995 Dominique Laurent Clos de la Roche. It is now 30+ years old! We think it might have lost some of the lush fruit flavors, but it was redolent with spice and a slight raisined fruit flavors with a strong acidic finish. Because the duck had a sweet fig sauce, it paired very well with the wine.
I learned more about Dominique Laurent online. Dominique Laurent is a pastry chef turned negociant. The key to his success is that he searches for vineyards cultivated by skilled vignerons, with a particular emphasis on old vines. Laurent's philosophy is that the right type of barrel is key to the elevage. He selects Troncais wood and personally oversees the air-drying process.
Hope you all had a Happy Valentine's Day!

Vintage 2026: February

Hello! I have been offline for a few weeks. The big thing about this vintage so far has been the snow that we have had. In my last blogpost I wrote that we had not seen such cold and snow since 2015. On January 26, we had between 10-12 inches of snow along the shoreline which has not melted due to the extremely cold weather that we have had.
As I write this, the weather forecasters are calling for a "bombogenesis" of snow and wind to arrive on Sunday into Monday bringing between 10-20 inches of snow and wind gusts of 50 mph! This is what the forecasrters predict:

I will remember the winter of the 2026 vintage as an uncharacteristically cold and snowy one!

Vintage 2026: January Weather

This has got to be the coldest winter that we have experienced in a long time. The winter weather reared it's head on December 14, 2025 when we had our harvest party. There was a mix of rain and snow and it put a slight damper on our party turnout.
In mid-January there was a slight uptick in temperatures that our weather forecasters called the January thaw. Even though the temperatures were around 40 degrees, the windchill brought the temperatures into the 20s. This warm spell was followed by a wintery mix of rain and snow on January 18 that brought more snow overnight into January 19, giving us snow that we had to shovel!
This week we are facing a huge snowstorm heading our way on Sunday and Monday. In talking to friends we think that we have not experienced this type of weather since 2015. I actually blogged about it in Vintage Notes 2015.
Let's hope that when February comes, Punxsutawney Phil will come out of his home at Gobbler's Knob and give us some good weather news!

Kizakura Junmai Daiginjo Sake

Last year we went to Hawaii to celebrate my mother's 96th birthday and at that time we went to some sake stores in search of sake to bring home with us and scored a few bottles.
A few nights ago, our friends invited us for dinner, which was a delicious harissa coated salmon that he paired with a Chateau Beaucastel. There was salmon leftover so he gave that to us.
How does sake and salmon come together? In the back of my mind, I recalled the stacked tuna dish that I had in Hawaii and wanted to recreate it with the salmon. I made sushi rice on the bottom, shredded the salmon, put avocado and green onions on top. Then I asked my husband if we had any sake to pair with my concoction and he thought that we did and retrieved this Kizakura Junmai Daiginjo sake and salmon.

The pairing was a good one. This sake is made from 100% Yamadanishiki rice at a polish ratio of 50% and is 16% alcohol! We drank the sake in mini glasses and savored it along with the sushi rice salmon stack. Maybe another trip to Hawaii to purchase more sake is warranted. Actually, this sake can be purchased online!

2023 Yi Yook-sa Wine

Last year (sounds so long ago!) our friend came back from Korea with a gift of wine. He is interested in growing grapes and making wine in Korea.
This wine came from a winery near where our friend intends to put in a vineyard. The winery is called Yi Yook-sa and also goes by the number 264. The two names are to celebrate the famous poet, Yi Yook-sa and the 264 is the poet's prison number.
The wine is made from the Cheongsoo grape, which was developed in Korea. The Cheongsoo grape is a cross between the 'Siebel 9110' and 'Himrod' varieties. The 'Siebel 9110' is a French-American hybrid grape variety and the 'Himrod' is an American grape variety, known for being seedless.
The wine was beautifully floral on the nose and it reminded me of the aroma of Gewurztraminer. The flavor was very tropical with a good balance between the fruit and acidity.
We hope our friend does realize his dream of planting a vineyard in Korea. We'll be rooting for him and hoping to taste some of his Cheongsoo wine!

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year, everyone!
We typically begin the year taking a break in January and February from vineyard duties and then begin work in the vineyard in March. That was true in 2025.
Here are the vintage notes for 2025:
Vintage 2025: It's March and That Means It's Time to Prune
Vintage 2025: April Showers!
Vintage 2025: May Day!
Vintage 2025: June Update
Vintage 2025: Flowering
Vintage 2025: It's July!
Vintage Notes 2025: The Auxerrois is at Veraison
Vintage 2025: Labor Day Activities
Vintage 2025: Auxerrois Pressing and Statistics
Vintage 2025: Chardonnay Harvest and Pressing
Vintage 2025: Chenin Blanc Harvest and Pressing - Part 1
Vintage 2025: Chenin Blanc Harvest Part 2
Vintage 2025: Red Harvest
Vintage 2025: Late Harvest Noble Rot Chenin Blanc
Vintage 2025: Last Harvest of 2025
All in all, while the weather began with a cold spring that turned into a very wet late spring and early summer, by late July and August the weather turned into one of ample sunshine which was good for ripening grapes. While the vines seem to still be recovering from the 2023 February freeze and May frost, the quality of the harvest was outstanding!
A big take home lesson from 2025 for us, is to be more on the ball with pruning so that our canes are laid down earlier. That will give us more time to begin mowing sooner and avoiding the manual weed whacking that my husband endured during the growing season.
If you are interested in what our various vintages were like, please check out this link to Vintage Notes
Hau'oli Makahiki Hou!