Thursday, August 13, 2026

Racking Our Late Harvest Botrysized Chenin Blanc

On December 7, 2025 we harvested our late harvest Chenin blanc, which is a wine made from botrysized grapes. The conditions must be just so in order for this good form of botrytis fungus to infect the grapes, leaving the grape berry to look remarkably like a raisin, dehydrating and concentrating the sugars and the acids.
We brought in 6 lugs of grapes still in their organza bags and proceeded to press the juice out of the bags. We were able to get slightly more than two gallons of juice with a starting Brix of 32.
We began fermentation with a yeast called SM102 which is known to be a slow fermenter and also not able to ferment the high sugar content of the juice once the alcohol level reaches 12%.
On Monday, August 10, we racked the finished wine away from its lees (dead yeast) and were able to get two gallons of wine which we are storing before we bottle.
We dedicate half of a row in our vineyard toward this effort and the result is two gallons of racked Chenin Blanc. In the glass, the color was a golden amber and the taste was sublime. It still needs some bottle aging, but it is well on its joourney to become a true representation of a late harvest botrysized Chenin blanc.

Friday, August 7, 2026

2021 Forge Cellars Riesling

A few weeks ago, one of us was feeling the need to have fried chicken. We looked up a recipe from Ina Garten for oven friend chicken which sounded very good. The only drawback was that the chicken needed to soak overnight in buttermilk. This is a crucial step in having moist, delicious fried chicken, so satifying the craving had to be postponed for 24 hours. Ina's fried chicken is a good thing to have when time is limited because the actual frying part takes only 6 minutes, three minutes on each side of the chicken and then the chicken spends the next 40 minutes in the oven. Ina recommended 350 degrees but I think 375 gets the chicken crisper.
We made up our own flour coating for the chicken which consisted of 2 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon each of onion powder, garlic powder, smoked paprika and 1/2 teaspoon of cayenne pepper. We didn't add any salt or pepper, but in retrospect, we would add salt and pepper to the flour mixture. Here is what it looked like:
We paired the fried chicken with a 2021 Forge Cellars Riesling. This was perfect! In November 2024, we took a short trip to Ithaca and went to Forge Cellars, this is a wine from that trip. The Caywood, Seneca Lake Riesling was dry on the palate and a perfect compliment to the fried chicken.
Fried chicken craving satisfied!

Monday, August 3, 2026

Vintage 2026: August Activities

Our summer so far: June was a month of hot and humid days followed by days of rain and July continued that trend. In looking back at July, it doesn't appear that there were too many days of rain, but what Mother Nature provided was enough to make our young shoots reach the top trellis wire and more!
When that happens, we are not in the vineyard and the vineyard will do it's own thing. In this case, the Chenin blanc will grow and reach across the alley and "hold hands".
In the photo above, the left side shows what the Chenin blanc looked like before we hedged and shoot tucked. On the right hand side shows what the alley looked like after we have hedged and shoot tucked. Ideally, the entire vineyard should look like the right side photo.
August is also when our white grapes begin to undergo the beginning of sugar accumulation called véraison in French. What this means for our work in the vineyard, is simultaneous to hedging and shoot tucking, we must also deploy our nets to protect the ripening grapes from birds and other critters that love sweet grapes.
We have a lot to do in August. We are hoping that Mother Nature is kind to us. Crossing my fingers!

Wednesday, July 15, 2026

The Impact of Ripening Stage and Maceration Time on Cabernet Franc

I am on a quest to understand how to tell the hallmarks of a good Cabernet franc wine. This article, "Sensory representation of typicality of Cabernet franc wines related to phenolic composition: Impact of ripening stage and maceration time," was in my email box and it seemed the answer to the question of what a good Cabernet franc tastes like.
The previous blogpost, What is JAR? was written to familiarize myself with the definition of "typicality" in wine and how to measure typicality using the Descriptive Analysis (DA) and Just About Right (JAR) Analysis. The authors focused their research on the influence of the harvest date and the maceration time on the wine style.
What are the hallmarks of wine quality?
There were 12 identical wines used in the DA and JAR analyses made from Cabernet franc grapes grown in the Loire Valley. For the DA analysis, a panel of 17 judges not related to the wine industry was chosen. Wine samples were poured at room temperature and resulted in the generation of 15 attributes from the judges. The judges scores each of the 15 attributes on a scale with “low intensity” on the left and “high intensity” on the right.
For the JAR analysis, nineteen judges (5 winemakers, 7 oenologists, 4 wine-merchants-maturers and 3 technicians) took part in the experiment. Twelve attributes were selected for evaluation. The judges were instructed as follows: “for each descriptor”, answer the following question: “do you think this descriptor is ideal from a typicality point of view, too strong, or too weak?” The 19 judges also were instructed as follows: “For each wine presented, answer the following question: “do you think this wine is a good example or a bad example of what an Anjou-Villages wine is?”
The takeaway from this analysis was that ripening stage was more important than maceration time in determining the typicality of a Cabernet franc wine from the Anjou-Villages in the Loire Valley.
  • Prediction of wine quality based on the berry composition should also include their extractability during winemaking
  • Ripening stage had a major influence on tannin extraction: tannin extraction from skins increased with ripening and then decreased
  • As expected, acidity was lower and anthocyanin and alcohol contents higher with more advanced ripening
  • Phenolic composition at harvest also explained the wine style
  • Wines from later harvests were richer in proanthocyanidins, which may be related to their higher typicality scores
  • From a sensorial point of view, harvest date was significant for typicality assessment: wines with the latest harvest date were more typical. Maceration time was not significant
To be honest, I wasn't surprised at their results. When we harvest our Cabernet franc, we are always looking at the balance of brix (sugar content), pH and titratable acids. If the harvest can be prolonged and sugar accumulation continued, then our Cabernet franc has the typicity of a good Cabernet franc that we are aiming for. Is there a typicality for Cabernet franc wine made and grown from grapes in our corner of Connecticut, that is the question.
References:
1. Yves Cadot, Soline Caillé, Alain Samson, Gérard Barbeau, and Véronique Cheynier, "Sensory representation of typicality of Cabernet franc wines related to phenolic composition: Impact of ripening stage and maceration time", Analytica Chimica Acta, 732 (2012) 91–99.