Saturday, February 2, 2019

Champagne Part 1: Location

I can't believe that it is already February in the New Year! Drinking and enjoying Champagne with oysters is one of the joys of life, so it is incumbent upon any Champagne drinker to know much more about this delightful drink, of which I am one. So this winter, I decided that I am going to dedicate some serious time to researching all about this bubbly liquid. Also, we have been trying our hand at making Pétillant Naturel so I thought it might be a good idea to review how Champagne is made and how it differs from Pétillant Naturel.
Champagne is a sparkling wine that comes from Champagne region of France. Its vineyard boundaries have been defined by France’s appellation system (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée or AOC) since 1927.1 EU law and the laws of most countries reserve the term "Champagne" exclusively for wines that come from this region.
Champagne is situated 90 miles northeast of Paris, one of the most northerly latitudes in the wine world. Champagne lies over a chalk plain (a major influence of the terroir) and is split by the River Marne.
The Champagne region consists of 5 main regions, split into 17 sub-regions:2
I love this map of Champagne because the inset map shows where the Champagne region is located and the map itself shows all of the 5 main regions in Champagne and it's relationship to the other regions.
    All five regions have their own distinct personalities to contribute to the land of Champagne.3,4
  • Montage de Reims
  • Located along a ridge that starts south of the city of Reims and curves back around toward Epernay, the Montagne de Reims has some of the most diverse soil in Champagne, making it home to all three major grapes in the region. However, the Montagne de Reims is most known for Pinot Noir, and its many Grand Cru villages are the sources for ripe, high-quality grapes used in the wines of large Champagne houses.
  • Côte des Blancs
  • The Côte des Blancs specializes in the white grape, Chardonnay. Running south from the city of Epernay, the soil of this east and southeast-facing slope (or “côte”) has a higher amount of limestone-rich chalk than elsewhere in Champagne. This creates grapes with high levels of acidity – a natural fit for Chardonnay and Blanc de Blancs bottlings.
  • Vallée de la Marne
  • Located along the Marne river west of Epernay, the Vallée de la Marne is Pinot Meunier country. Because this region is prone to frost and is more dominated by clay and sand rather than chalk, Pinot Meunier works best, as it buds late and ripens early. Some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted here as well. While not as “new” as the Côte de Sezanne and Aube, the Vallée de la Marne is still evolving in its identity outside of being merely the land of Meunier.
  • Côte des Sézanne
  • Located just south of the heart of Champagne production, the Côte de Sezanne is like a baby Côte des Blancs. While well-suited to Chardonnay, the Côte de Sezanne’s soil isn’t as dominated by chalk. Therefore, wines are slightly lower in acidity but slightly higher in aromatic intensity. The Côte de Sézanne falls somewhere in between the “big three” regions and the Aube, identity-wise; it doesn’t have classic status, but there isn’t as much buzz around innovation and artisanal production.
  • Aube
  • Looking at a map, it might not be initially apparent that the Aube is part of Champagne; it’s actually closer to Chablis than it is to Reims and Epernay! The Aube, and its sub-region of Côte des Bars, is an up-and-coming region close to the city of Troyes, known for its terroir-driven grower-producers who are pushing against the mold when it comes to traditionally-accepted vinification methods. Pinot Noir dominates the vineyards of the Aube, as this is a warmer region with less chalk in the soil.
The majority (over two thirds) of the vineyards are found in the Marne valley.3
In doing this research into Champagne, I learned rather belatedly about the vineyards where the Krug Wines that we were treated to in 2013, were located. (The “Clos du Mesnil” sourced from a walled vineyard in the center of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, located in the Côte des Blancs.)

References:
1. Terroir & appellation: The Champagne terroir.
2. Cellar Tours.
Text comes from:
3. Courtney Schiessl @takeittocourt, ViNEPAIR, Definitive Guide to Champagne + Map.
Maps come from:
4. Wine Folly Champagne Map.

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