Tuesday, January 21, 2025

Hyperoxidation in Our Pressed Chardonnay Juice?

Today, I am looking back at our 2024 Chardonnay harvest and pressing. We pressed our 2024 Chardonnay on Monday, September 30, the juice was left in the press pan until there was enough to pump over into our transport barrels. During that time, the juice turned a dark brown color, despite the fact that my husband added potassium metabisulfite to the pressed juice. I recognized it as oxidation, but was it hyperoxidation?
Hyperoxidation is a winemaking practice that involves forced oxidation of white juice prior to fermentation in order to reduce the phenolic content of the juice which can be bitter and lead to astringent wines.1 If hyperoxidation is used on the juice, the result is juice that is black in color. This technique originated in Burgundy sometime in the early 20th century.
Since we did not add more oxygen into the juice by using a diffuser, our juice did not qualify as hyperoxidized juice, however it was much darker in color than we usually see in our pressed juice.
I remembered a Chardonnay that we tasted in January 2023, during our Great Chardonnay Tasting when we sampled a wine called 00 from Oregon's Willamette Valley made by Chris and Kathryn Hermann using hyperoxidation. Double Zero’s Chardonnay is picked fully ripe, but at relatively low sugar levels, and the whole clusters are foot-crushed, chilled and macerated overnight. It then sees a long “heavy press cycle” with no sulfur additions. The must goes into the press pan and immediately turns dark brown to black through oxidation of the molecules from the skins.
This hyperoxidation technique used by 00 is to maximize the extraction of phenolics from the skins and seeds making the oxidized phenols fall out of suspension. The resultant clear juice is put into barrels, leaving behind the gross lees, and fermented with native yeast and then aged.
The result is a wine that retains all of the complex aromatics, flavors and texture from the phenols—is astonishingly oxidation-resistant and fresh. The top wines develop for 18 months in barrel, gaining in complexity and richness of texture through contact with the thick layer of lees.2
This is a picture of the 00 juice in the press pan which looks very much like the color of our pressed juice:
Recently we went back to sample our 2024 Chardonnay. The color was pale yellow in the glass and the aromatics were reminiscient of tropical flowers. The favors were of honey and pineapple. We will continue to leave our wine on the lees and monitor it's evolution. This wine seems to have a different flavor profile from other Chardonnays that we made. It could be the result of the juice browning, dropping out some of the oxidated phenols.
Here is a picture of our 2024 Chardonnay in the glass:

References:
1. Australian Wine Research Institute, Winemaking Treatments - Hyperoxidation.
2. The Rare Wine Company, Double Zero Chardonnay.

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