Canopy Management in the Auxerrois

We are continuining canopy management in our vineyard. We are currently in the Auxerrois engaged in the gentle art of leaf pulling. There are only so many leaves that we want to pull off because we want the rest to be left for photosynthesis, we are only pulling the leaves on the east side of the trellis. Here are before and after photos of leaf pulling:

During leaf pulling, we make sure that the developing clusters are not entwined in each other and in the trellis post. The Auxerrois is an interesting grape because it can have as many as three clusters per shoot.

While leaf pulling, we are also making sure that all of the shoots are tucked into the trellis and we cut off any summer laterals (secondary shoots) that are sticking out of the canopy. We are also hedging the top of the canopy, since we have already hedged the canopy in early July, what we are hedging now consist mainly of summer laterals.
The Auxerrois is the first of our grapes to go into véraison so we know that we must ensure that the netting is ready to deploy.
These canopy management tasks have a profound difference in the look of the canopy. Here is a row of Auxerrois showing where shoot tucking, leaf pulling and hedging were done and a short section where the tasks still need to be attended to.

Next tasks, the rest of the 31 rows of grapes that we have!

Product Review: Netting Anchor Clips

I have never written a product comparison review before. There is always a first time. I wanted to share our experiences so that if you find yourself in the market for netting anchor clips, you can choose wisely. The first time that we put up our side netting in 2017, I wrote about How Long Does It Take to Net. In that blogpost, I showed the anchor clips that we purchased to hold our netting, it was black and did the job. Now, in 2022, we have three different types of anchor clips in our vineyard and this is what they look like:

A few years later, we put up more netting as the vines grew and produced fruit and at that time, we purchased anchor clip 2, the one in the middle. We liked that clip because it didn't have the spikes on the bottom that the black anchor clip has which can catch on the netting and make it a bit difficult to unroll. Last year, when we purchased the last of the anchor clips for the 3 rows of vines that now needed netting, we were sent anchor clip 3. Initially, it was very easy to slip the netting into anchor clip 3, but was is easy to slip in is easy to slip out.
Throughout the very windy winter and spring, anchor clip 3 did the following:

The netting slips off very easily from anchor clip 3 and then the nets go everywhere! It takes quite a bit of time to rehook the netting at a time when other tasks are claiming out attention. We are thinking that we need to change the anchor clips so that we won't have this problem next year. Sigh....

2015 Kritt Pinot Blanc

We had this season's first Caprese Salad with this 2015 Kritt Pinot Blanc from the Alsace. Caprese salad is a refreshing meal, yes meal, when the temperatures feel like more than 90 degrees outside. The pairing with this Marc Kreydenweiss Pinot Blanc was perfect! The wine reminded me of the unforgettable Pinot Blanc that we had at Greg and Linda Pearl's when we stayed at their Pearlessence Vineyard Inn. At 13% alcohol, the mouth feel is definitely there, along with the flavors and aromas of white peaches, honey and for me, a hint of umeshu, which also conjures up pleasant memories.

Vintage 2022: July Heat Wave

Tuesday, July 19 was the start of the first heat wave to hit Connecticut this year. The Chenin Blanc was demanding our presence so we went to the vineyard at 8:00 and worked until noon and then went back at 4:30 and worked until 6:00 pm.
On Wednesday, July 20 we went to the vineyard at 7:30 in the morning and finished shoot tucking in one of the rows of the Chenin Blanc at 10:45 and we were done, physically that is.
The picture on the right is a screenshot of the temperature at 1:22. The temperature was 86 degrees but the feel like temperature was 95 degrees! On that day, it was only a one shift day, no going back in the afternoon.
The weather forecast is calling for this heat wave to last until Sunday, which could be the hottest day, with temperatures perhaps reaching the high 90's and maybe 100 degrees!
It reminds me of the summer of 2020 when we experienced June Heat Waves and July Heat Waves and had a total of 4 heat waves that summer.
Not only is our region experiencing a heat wave, we are in a moderate draught situation. So far, the vines are tolerating the heat and the draught reasonably well. Fortunately, we had a bit of rain (0.8 inches) on Monday that has alleviated the situation a little. We think that finally, the roots of the vines have burrowed deep enough to access enough moisture to sustain them.
One thing we know about the heat waves that we had in 2020, the grapes accumulated the most sugar that we had ever! Perhaps, 2022 will be a repeat.

Insect Siting in the Vineyard: Albuna pyramidalis

We are working in the Chenin Blanc shoot tucking and I came across this interesting insect. It kind of looked like a yellow jacket, but having many close encounters with yellow jackets, I knew that this was not a yellow jacket so I took out my phone and took a picture. When I zoomed in closely to the insect, I knew that it was a moth because of it's feathery antennae so I looked it up on the Internet.

This is a fireweed clearwing moth, Albuna pyramidalis! It is a member of the Family Sesiidae. Looking at the wings of this moth tells you why it is identified as a clear wing, the antennae is also feathered, letting you know that it is a moth. This fireweed clearwing is exhibiting Batesian mimicry, having evolved to mimic the harmful wasp in an attempt to deter predators.
This is the first fireweed clearwing that we have seen in the vineyard. We love seeing all of the diverse wildlife in our vineyard.
When I was looking up information on this clearwing, I learned that National Moth Week is July 23-31, 2022!
References:
1. Butterflies and Moths of North America, Clearwing Moth, Albuna pyramidalis.

How to Open and Taste an Old Wine

I read this article in Food and Wine and thought that it was worth blogging about. We have had the privilege of tasting old wines 1987 La Tache and 1995 Romanée Saint-Vivant and 1993 Paumanok Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vintage and 1997 Palmer Merlot are among our most memorable old wines. This article is a guide to how to open and drink and old wine.
When people think of old wines, it is generally an old red wine made from red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Sangiovese, but there are also white varieties that can age as well such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Blanc. Indeed, Burgundy's rare and expensive whites from Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne could still be "young" after ten years in the bottle.
This article mentions using an Ah-So or a Durand to get a cork out of an older wine. My husband is a fan of the Durand which is a combination of a screwpull and an Ah-So. Although it is on the expensive side, if you want a chance at getting out an old cork without disintegration, the Durand is the proper tool.
To remove the cork and taste an old wine, the author of this article, Jonathan Christaldi recommends the following:

• Make sure the wine is at the right temperature. 56 degrees for reds and a bit cooler for whites.
• If there is a foil capsule, carefully remove it.
• Gently remove the cork and immediately pour a bit of wine into a glass and taste it.
• Gently clean any bits of cork or sediment clinging to the neck of the bottle.
• Taste the wine first to decide if it needs decanting.
• Decanting an older could lead to a rapid decline. Only if the wine is very tight and not expressive, decanting could help open it up.
• Upon tasting, if the wine is unpleasant, smelling old and musty, like nothing much and primarily astringent, or just rank to the taste, don't overthink it — the wine didn't last.
• The proper glassware can dramatically change the experience of drinking an older wine. The aromatics can be completely different depending upon the shape of the glass.

The importance of tasting an older wine is to appreciate every sip and to make that wine last through the evening as it opens up and reveals every nuance of what went in to making that wine. Most of all, ENJOY!

The Status of Our Grape Varieties

On June 27, I blogged about Berry Set in the Vineyard, here is a comparison of the varieites from June 27 and July 12.

Auxerrois June 27	Auxerrois July 12

Chenin Blanc June 27	Chenin Blanc July 12

Chardonnay June 27	Chardonnay July 12

Cabernet Sauvignon June 27	Cabernet Sauvignon July 12

Cabernet Franc June 27	Cabernet Franc July 12

Barbera June 27	Barbera July 12

The vineyard currently has us shoot positioning, shoot tucking, freeing up the netting and lowering it and hedging. It is a good thing we have help from family from Hawaii and friends!

Bordeaux Grape Varieties to Withstand a Warmer World

Bordeaux grape growers had a problem on their hands. Their grapes were becoming increasingly higher in sugar content leading to a wine with higher alcohol levels. The numbers have crept up to 13.5%, 14.5% and even 15% in the 2018 Bordeaux vintage. The increase in alcohol content affects the flavor profile, the acidity, structure and aromatics that the world has come to associate with classic Bordeaux.
The question was what to do to address this problem. On January 26, 2021, the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), a division of France’s Ministry of Agriculture approved 4 red varieties and 2 white varieties that will be allowed to grow in Bordeaux. This announcement represents the culmination of over a decade of research by wine scientists and growers of Bordeaux to address the impact of climate change through highly innovative, eco-friendly measures.
Over the past decade, more than 52 varieties of grapes were subjected to scrutiny and six varieties made the final cut. These six varieties are limited to 5% of the planted vineyard area and cannot account for more than 10% of the final blend of any given color. The legal regulations for labelling means that those varieties will not appear on Bordeaux labels.
New Red Varieties
Arinarnoa The result of a cross between Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon, Arinarnoa is known for its steady production, large bunches and late bud burst. It is resistant to grey rot. It adapts well to climate changes, producing low sugar levels and good acidity. Wines are well structured, colorful and tannic, with complex, persistent aromas.
Castets
Origin: Southwestern France, possibly in Gironde
This historical and long-forgotten Bordeaux grape variety is less susceptible to grey rot, odium and especially powdery mildew, hence its indisputable environmental interest. Wines are colorful and suitable for aging.
Marselan
Origin: INRA 1961
A cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, this late-ripening variety is at lower risk of suffering from spring frost and follows a conventional pattern with respect to harvesting dates for the Bordeaux vineyards. It adapts well to climate changes and has proven to be less susceptible to grey rot, odium and mites. Wines are high quality, colorful, distinctive and suitable for ageing.
Touriga Nacional
Origin: Portugal
A very late-ripening variety born in the Dâo and important in the Douro, Touriga Nacional is less at risk of suffering from spring frost, allowing later harvesting and adapts to climate changes. It is not particularly susceptible to most fungal diseases, except for grapevine dead arm. Wines are of excellent quality, complex, aromatic, full-bodied, structured, colorful and suitable for ageing.
New White Varieties
Alvarinho
Origin: Portugal/Spain
The pronounced aromatic qualities of the Portuguese Alvarinho grape variety can be used to make up for the loss of flavor usually caused by hot weather. Its ability to adapt to climatic events makes it less susceptible to grey rot. Its average potential in sugar provides subtle, aromatic wines with good acidity.
Liliorila
Origin: INRA 1956
Like Alvarinho, the pronounced aromatic qualities of Liliorila can be used to make up for the loss of flavor usually caused by hot weather. A cross between Baroque and Chardonnay, it is less susceptible to grey rot. Wines are flowery, powerful and aromatic.

References:
1. Roger Voss and Kathleen Buckley, Beverage Industry Enthusiast, Bordeaux Aims to Protect its Future with New Grape Varieties
2. Wine Industry Network, Bordeaux Receives National Approval to Introduce Six New Red and White Grape Varieties in 2021, January 26, 2021.

Vintage 2022: It's July!

It's July. The grape varieties have flowered and are all in various stages of fruitset. Mother Nature provided us with rain on June 8, 9, 13, 17, 19, and 27. The Chardonnay being the first to bloom suffered a little from the rain events and looks like this:

What we know about our vineyard is that the Chardonnay is very susceptible to downy mildew. This year, we have paid particular attention to shoot thinning, shoot tucking and shoot positioning the Chardonnay. With all of the rain in June, the shoots reached beyond the last catchwires. Last year, we decided to hedge a little on the late side and the shoots were at least 5 feet beyond the last catchwires and become infected with the mildews. This year, we are hedging early to prevent that from occuring again. So, the Chardonnay looks like this:
The Good

The Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the Barbera, being east of the Chardonnay also receives our attention. The second variety to receive more of our attention is the Auxerrois and it looks like this:
The Bad

The variety that often suffers from the attention that we give to our other varieties, is the Chenin Blanc. The Chenin Blanc is quite resilient so we tend to neglect it a bit. So, the Chenin Blanc looks like this:
The Ugly

Fortunately, we have reinforcements in the form of our family from Worcester and Hawaii. They are going to lend us a hand so we hope to turn "The Ugly" into "The Good".