Some of Our Ducks are Lining Up

Happy Easter!
After Jeff, Bill, Barry and my husband finished tiling the field, we paused and said, "Oh, what a beautiful field this is!" And then came the realization that we were going to have to find a way to plant 6804 grapevines that we had ordered from Mercier, CA. I proposed to my husband that we send out an SOS (Facebook, I was thinking) for 6804 people to come and join us in planting our vineyard. Wouldn't it be neat to have 6804 people, each with one vine, shovel in hand and at the signal, start digging and then plant the vine. I had visions of YouTube video going viral. One minute, nothing, the next minute an entire vineyard! My husband quickly brought me back to reality by asking me questions like, "How are 6804 people coming up to our land? Do you know how much one shovel costs, let's say it was $20.00, we would be spending $136,080.00 to plant the field." Okay, back to the drawing board.
We really had our hearts set on getting some one to laser plant our vines but because of the unusualness of the tall grafts, it wasn't something that is normally planted by vineyard managers, let alone people with laser-guided planters! We talked with Steve Mudd on Long Island and he said to have Mercier ship 6 plants and he'll try it with his device. Mercier sent the 6 vines to Steve and when Steve received them, he mentioned how healthy the roots were and how well the graft union looked. We were happy! Happier still, Steve mentioned that his planter could handle the tall grafts.
So, on Tuesday, March 26th, Steve was in our area and came to visit us on our land. Steve said the land looks good. It is a good thing to be on a hill because cold air is like water and runs to the lowest point.

Out on the West Coast, our vines have been crated and are awaiting the right moment to be shipped. Some of our ducks are lining up!

Wines & Vines: Vineyard Innovations

I read the March 2013, Wines & Vines and found some validation near the end of the article entitled Vineyard Innovations. My husband and I are going out on a limb (oh, bad pun) by planting a vineyard full of tall grafted vines that we had custom grafted at Mercier Vineyards, California. Cameron Hosmer and Ken Whitty of Benchmark Custom Vineyard Planting were interviewed for this article on their experiences with laser guided planters for mechanizing vineyard development. Using the laser guided system, Hosmer says that he can plant 5000 vines on a good day.
Jan Waltz whom we visited on the way to Wineries Unlimited, has contracted Hosmer's laser guided planting and confirms that "the resultant vineyard with its uniform spacing makes other mechanized work such as harvesting, spraying and pruning easier to do".
In the same article, John Duarte of Duarte Nursery is quoted as saying that one of the "coolest" new technologies is the Vibrosoiler that can prepare the vineyard by ripping the soil when it is moist to preserve the soil structure. John Duarte worked with John Crosslands of Vineyard Professional Services for a trial using the nursery’s UberVine (a 42-inch bench-grafted grapevine) with the Vibrosoiler’s plant-preparation system, which can rip and mound a row while also incorporating soil adjustments. Crossland confirmed that the UberVines demonstrated a “significant amount of growth” after being planted, and he believes they yielded up to a 3-ton crop during their second leaf.¹
While we are not looking to get a crop during our second leaf, it helps to know that there is some excitement out there about the uber/tall grafted vines being a vineyard innovation.
References:
1. Andrew Adams, Wines & Vines, Mechanizing Vineyard Development, March 2013.

2010 Paul Garaudet Cuvee Paul

This is a nicely crafted Pinot Noir from Monthelie made by Paul Garaudet. On their website, it mentions that Paul Garaudet is the 4th generation in his family to continue in the tradition of making wine. The harvesting is done by hand and they do not use any chemicals in the making of their wine.
We found the wine to have a clear ruby color in the glass. The nose was of black cherries and black raspberries. It's drinkable now but it had that complexity suggestive of it's ability to evolve into something more given time in the cellar. My husband is thinking that he needs to go on a roadtrip to get a few more bottles of this wine.

Influence of Vineyard Floor Management on Grape and Fruit Quality

Our goal when we grow grapes is not to use any pesticides or herbicides. We have been advised by friends who are already in the business that the weeds will get out of hand very quickly. Therefore, we have been researching steps we can take in order to tame the weeds. So, the question is, how to get our vineyard to work for us and not against us. In a previous blogpost, Influence of Cover Crops on Canopy Density showed the importance of under the trellis cover crops to manage vine vigor. There is a concept called vineyard floor management that when put into practice is very beneficial for the grapevines.
The principal goals of vineyard floor management include:¹

• Weed management
• Soil conservation and improvement
• Soil nutrient and water management
• Refuge for beneficial insects
• Diminished resource availability (i.e. nutrients, water) to control vine vigor

Cultivation versus herbicide application
The article compares the benefits of cultivation and herbicide application. The disadvantage of herbicide application includes the risk of developing herbicide resistant weeds, the risk of toxicity—both to the vines and operator—and the potential for herbicide residues leaching to waterways. This is balanced by the effectiveness, ease of use and low cost. The alternative to chemical herbicides is the use of organic herbicides such as clove oil, acetic and citric acid products, and corn gluten meal for the control of weeds.
Use of cover crops
This review also mentions that overall, cover crops are clearly considered a quality element in a vineyard, with benefits to the vine that include soil protection from erosion and crusting, vine growth regulation, improved soil fertility, structure, and water-holding capacity, increased soil biological diversity, weed suppression, habitat for beneficial predators, and provides a firm footing for cultural operations.
There is more information on various mulches as well as flame weeding. This is a review that I will be rereading once we get our vineyard established.
Reference:
1. Bibiana Guerra and Kerri Steenwerth, Influence of Floor Management Technique on Grapevine Growth, Disease Pressure, and Juice and Wine Composition: A Review, Am. J. Enol. Vitic., June 2012 63:149-164; doi:10.5344/ajev.2011.10001.

John from Duplin Winery--A Chance Meeting

One of the things that is so interesting about going to a trade show such as Wineries Unlimited is the opportunity for chance meetings. We sat next to John from Duplin Winery in the session on Winery DIY that we attended in order to learn about marketing. We learned from John that Duplin Winery is located in North Carolina and they make sweet wines from the muscadine grape. That jogged my memory from listening to Carole Meredith speak about the muscadine grape, Vitis rotundifolia. John mentioned that Duplin has been a family winery since 1970 and now they sell about 300,000 cases a year!
I'm Google-mining muscadines to learn more about this unusual grape and found some great information from the North Carolina Muscadine Grape Association. The muscadines are native to the southern United States, having a tough skin that can range in color from bronze to reddish to black. I also came across an article The mother of all vines gives birth to a new wine, published in The Virginian-Pilot, on July 14, 2008 by Catherine Kozak which featured the following photo of the oldest cultivated grapevine in the world. It is 400 years old! This mother vine has been known to produce grapes up to two inches in diameter!

The other thing about the muscadine grape is that they have found that they contain the highest levels of resveratrol compared to other grape varieties:

Who knew! I like the idea of celebrating grape and wine diversity especially when the grape is loaded with resveratrol.

Visiting Ed Boyce at Black Ankle Vineyards

It's mid-March and we'd come out of winter dormancy, shedding our down coats, gloves, hats, etc., in anticipation of warmer weather. The birds were singing and we'd already sprung forward, all the signs were in favor of warmth. Not. Charles Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards had kindly facilitated the introduction via email, so on our trip back from the Wineries Unlimited meeting, we drove through Maryland to visit Ed Boyce at Black Ankle Vineyards located in Mt. Airy, Maryland.
As we drove the country road into Black Ankle Vineyards, the winds were gusting something fierce! I put on my red wind breaker with a hood over my light fleece jacket and then my wool peacoat, all the while wishing that I had not forsaken my down coat. What a site I must have looked like! However, Ed came from behind the barn and extended a warm welcome to us and showed us his winery. Ed showed us how he is using hay bales to construct the insulation of his winery. He also uses his soil over the hay bales to construct his walls. So totally sustainable and green.

During the tour of his winery, Ed explained how gravity flow may not be as important as initially thought, as long as you never pump must! Also very important is to get your tank volumes to match production since oxygen is the nemesis of fine wine. We then drove to the tasting room. The tasting room is also constructed of hay bales and Black Ankle soil, the tables are made from beautiful maple sourced right from the farm. We continued our discussion with Ed about all manner of things related to growing vines and making wines. He was then called away to corral a bull so he left us in the capable company of Melissa and Barbry where they poured us the Blank Ankle wines. Informative, educational, fun and delicious, we had a great time and more to think about on our journey as winegrowers and winemakers.

Wineries Unlimited

One of the things that we heard when we visited our area wineries was about the importance of marketing. At that time, we were focused on learning viticulture and enology so it was surprising to hear so much mention of marketing from our seasoned winemakers. To address a little of this blackhole of deficit in our knowledge we attended the full day workshop at Wineries Unlimited hosted by Elizabeth Slater and Gary Finnan called Winery DIY.
Elizabeth Slater and Gary Finnan are an engaging tag team and their presentation's theme was about "Envision, Re-vision and Re-vive". I loved when Elizabeth said that "Grapes are a gateway drug, it leads to wine." Currently, there are 8045 wineries in North America so differentiation is key. How do we make ourselves stand out. They have a neat acronym called DNA:

• Discover
• Nurture
• Act

Their other message was about connecting the back of the house, the business (BX) with the front of the house, the customers (CX), but above all, be authentic.
We also went to the Trade Show where we ran into Sebastian from Mercier. Over lunch with Sebastian he brought us up to date on how our tall vines are doing. One thing that Sebastian noticed about our tall vines compared to the regular grafts and grafts that were 20 inches in height was that they produced much more foliage during the summer of 2012. We think that this is because of the carbohydrates stored in the lengthy trunk which in our case is rootstock (101-14 MGT).
After lunch, we looked at corks from various vendors:

And you cannot believe the choices there are for bottles:

We also visited vendors who had tanks, trellising material, label makers, and many more. There was a vendor selling a machine that would turn your wine into a frozen drink. Interesting! Then it was time to head out the door and back on the road for the trip home.

Visiting Jan Waltz of Waltz Vineyards

We are imposing on the kindness of others, again. This time, we went to visit Jan Waltz of Waltz Vineyards located in Manheim, PA. We met Jan last year at the Eastern Winery Exposition and he talked with us for nearly 2 hours, giving us a tip that we followed up on, which was to visit the wineries in Ontario. We believe that Jan's viticultural practices as well as tasting room experiences are ones that we would like to emulate so we had many questions which Jan answered.
The vineyard is situated on top of a rolling hill and the view of the surrounding countryside is breathtaking. We walked through Jan's vineyard, still in dormancy, but pruned and awaiting warmer weather. Jan initially grew Seyval Blanc to sell to local vineyards but switched to Merlot based on advice from a local winemaker. One of Jan's concerns in the vineyard is to take care of vigor. His vines are trellised to VSP (vertical shoot positioning) and he has found that there is no need to add fertilizers. One of the stories that Jan told us was about the year that the summer was dry and the vines began ripening the grapes. Then the rains came and tricked the vines into thinking that they should still be growing so instead of continuing to ripen the fruit, the vine's energy went into growing the shoots!

For us, seeing the layout of his case good storage area, his barrel room as well as his fermentation room gave us a very good idea of what we could do to configure our winery space. Jan's production is about 2500 cases a year. We would be smaller than Jan with a maximum of 2000 cases at our 5 year mark.

We also went to Jan's barn where he explained the various Braun equipment that he uses for maintenance within the vine row. This is an important aspect in controlling vine vigor through the use of under the trellis cover crops. Jan gave us a lot of think about and all of this information is very timely since we anticipate planting in a few weeks!

Yield Versus Quality

I happened upon a really great site by chance which clarified for me, some of the issues in the yield versus quality debate that states that the lower the yield, the higher the quality. According to Jordan Ross at Enology International the factors affecting yield and quality include:

• Growing region
• Vineyard site
• Vine density
• Clone
• Grape variety
• Pruning
• Crop thinning
• And the complex relationships between all of these factors

Knowledge of the growing region is important. Adopting measures practiced in France and applying it to a New World site does not necessarily result in quality grapes. Jean-Michel Cazes of Chateau Lynch Bages was quoted by Ross as saying: "quantity and quality are not contradictory, that just because you produce a small volume, it doesn’t mean you make better wine."
The late Justin Meyer (Silver Oaks Winery) commented, “The first step is finding a good site and planting the correct variety." The problem is not to control the yield but to control the vigor of the vine and allow the site to dictate what that crop level should be.
The ideal site is a low vigor site. Too much water makes for an excess of vigor and that is not good for the quality of the wine. Andy Bledsoe of Mondavi explains: “The concept of a low vigor vine is the key.” Bledsoe elaborated on the conditions needed to achieve a low vigor vine as being “a well-drained soil so water is not too available, not overly nutritious so growth is limited, combined with the proper combination of rootstock, spacing and grape variety.”
Low yield is necessary to achieve the highest quality provided that the low yield is achieved through low vigor and not through green harvesting, severe pruning, or diseases which destroy the crop.
Cultural practices such as the appropriate trellis system, leaf pulling to open up the canopy maximizing sunlight exposure, improving air circulation, preventing rot and enhancing fruitfulness can contribute to the production of quality fruit. Overcropping, on the other hand exhausts the vine by depleting its stored energy reserves causing sluggish growth the following spring leading to reduced fruitfulness, excessive vegetative growth, shading of clusters and delayed maturity.
The above are some of the take-home messages that I got by reading Jordan Ross's article, Yield vs. Quality at Enology International. Check it out for the complete discussion on this topic.

1982 Robert Ampeau Meursault La Pièce sous le bois

Where ever we go, if the conversation turns to memorable wines, my husband brings up an aged Chardonnay that he says was the best Chardonnay that he has ever had. I have no idea what he is talking about or when he drank it because I don't remember drinking the wine he recalls so fondly. But then, it is my loss, not his. Recently, my husband was cleaning our "Wall of Fame" where we keep empty bottles of wines that we have really enjoyed over the years and there it was in the back of several bottles of recent additions. He exclaimed, "Here it is, the 1982 Robert Ampeau Meursault! This is the wine that I really loved!" In his memory lives a wine where the well known Meursault acidity had been well integrated, revealing an unbelievable body of flavors and a wonderful depth.

Influence of Cover Crops on Canopy Density

Excessive canopy density can lead to fruit, leaf, and bud shading, which, in turn, can reduce fruit quality, increase disease intensity, and reduce fruitfulness in the current and subsequent year. Shaded fruit, relative to more fully exposed fruit, is often lower in anthocyanins, certain flavor and aroma compounds, sugar, and phenolics and may exhibit elevated titratable acidity and pH.¹
A range of vine and vineyard management tools is often used to compensate for excessive growth. Vine and canopy management options include:

• Shoot hedging
• Lateral shoot removal
• Leaf removal
• Modified training systems
• Use of size-limiting rootstocks

Vineyard management tools used to compensate for excessive growth include:

• Root pruning
• Aggressive use of cover crops
• Regulated deficit irrigation

Cover crops can be used to regulate vine vigor by providing an intentional competition with vines for water and other soil resources. A research paper written by Tremain A. Hatch, Cain C. Hickey, and Tony K. Wolf¹ compares the effectiveness of under trellis cover crops (UTCC) relative to conventional vineyard floor management with herbicides in controlling vine vigor.
The experiment consisted of root restricted versus non-root restricted vines on three different rootstocks, Riparia Gloire (Riparia) (Vitis riparia), 420A (V. berlandieri x V. riparia), and 101-14 (V. riparia x V. rupestris) undergoing either under trellis cover crops (UTCC) or herbicide treatments. The following graphical summary shows that regardless of root restriction or rootstock, the under trellis cover crops (UTCC) was much better at controlling canopy density when compared with herbicide treatment.

We will definitely be putting in a cover crop after we plant our vineyard to control canopy density and vine vigor which is one of the problems associated with eastern viticulture.
Reference:
1. Tremain A. Hatch, Cain C. Hickey, and Tony K. Wolf, Cover Crop, Rootstock, and Root Restriction Regulate Vegetative Growth of Cabernet Sauvignon in a Humid Environment, Am. J. Enol. Vitic., September 2011 62:298-311; doi:10.5344/ajev.2011.11001.

California's First Woman Vine Grower and Two Horticultural Wonders

I was reading the 1983 publication, Winemaking in California, written by Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun. Always on the look out for interesting factoids related to grapes and wine, I found one on page 11 of the book. The authors tell the story of Doña Marcelina Dominguez who was responsible for planting the great Montecito grape vine and refer to her as California's most famous woman vine grower. The reference to Doña Marcelina Dominguez constituted a mere one paragraph in this book and I was hoping for more information so I did some Google-mining and found a wonderul site:
Santa Barbara's Historic Grapevines - Two of the World's Largest Vines.
This site has the entire story of Doña Marcelina Dominguez as well as some fabulous photos. I wrote to Cathy Berry, who published the information and asked if I could use some of the photos and she graciously gave me her permission and since I wanted more information, also provided me with the name and contact information for the Director of Research at the Santa Barbara Research Museum.
I'm sure that people in California and Santa Barbara are familiar with the Montecito grapevine, but here in Connecticut, I was totally ignorant of this horticultural wonder. The grapevine planted around 1800 by Doña Marcelina Dominguez became known as La Parra Grande. The ignominious fate of La Parra Grande was that it was dug up, cut up, crated and sent off to the 1876 Centennial Exposition held in Philadelphia where it was reassembled and put on display.

During its lifetime, dozens of strong posts were situated beneath the long branches of the La Parra Grande to provide support in anticipation of the annual harvest of at least 10 tons of fruit. Amazing!
La Parra Grande was not the only grapevine in the Santa Barbara area to achieve these enormous dimensions. La Vina Grande, was a Mission grape planted around the year 1840, by Joaquina Lugodi Ayala in Carpinteria, south of Santa Barbara. Although, La Vina Grande also is no longer extant, during it's approximately 70 year life span, even in it's advanced age, it bore 6 tons of fruit!

Please visit Cathy Berry's site for more information on Doña Marcelina Dominguez, La Parra Grande and La Vina Grande:
Santa Barbara's Historic Grapevines - Two of the World's Largest Vines
More information:
1. Michael Redmon, Santa Barbara Independent, ‘With July 4th just past, I was wondering how Santa Barbara celebrated the centennial in 1876.’, Thursday, July 10, 2008.
2. Amelia Woodward Truesdell, La Parra Grande, 1900.

German Publication on Stem Vines

I recently found some time to translate a German publication from The deutsche weinmagazin published on August 27, 2011 entitled Stem vines real progress, written by Agriculture Director Franz Pfaff.¹ A while back, Sebastian, from Mercier Vineyard, California sent us this article with a quick translation he did which still had me baffled.
What the article calls "stem vines" is what we refer to as tall-grafted vines. We will be planting our vines this coming spring (almost here!). After doing all our homework, interviewing our area viticulturalists who have established tall grafted Vitis vinifera vines in their vineyards, we decided that going that route would benefit us as well. It is an experiment, but a calculated one and this article provided us with some validation regarding our choice.
This article documents the trend toward tall-grafted vines in Germany. Although the vines can be twice as expensive as the conventional grafts at the nursery, there are advantages down the road. Some of the points made in the article which I can understand include:

• The risk of the scion rooting is eliminated because the scion is never in contact with the soil
• The rootstock, which forms the trunk has been disbudded so there is no problem with shoot growth from the trunk
• No shoot formation in the root area saves energy and benefits the growth of other vine organs
• The consequence of the disbudded trunk leads to less probability of infection by fungi
• Pruning activities are concentrated in the head region where the graft union allows for the clear determination of the scion
• There is a significant labor and time savings in the establishment of the young vineyard

We're looking forward to receiving our tall grafted vines and getting the vineyard planted. Stay tuned!
References:
1. Franc Pfaff, Stem vines real progress, The deutsche weinmagazin published on August 27, 2011.

Flavor-active Wine Yeasts: The Acetate and Ethyl Esters

If you look for it, you can find it. This morning I was interested in knowing whether the Internet had any information on the impact of yeast derived flavors during primary fermentation and there it was, a mini-review entitled "Flavour-active wine yeasts" authored by Antonio G. Cordente, Christopher D. Curtin, Cristian Varela, and Isak S. Pretorius in Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology in 2012.¹ Best of all, it was freely available! (Please see the References for a link to the article).
Reading this article is of interest to me because I was initially under the impression that a yeast is a yeast is a yeast, and it did not leave it's fermentation fingerprint on the wine. However, through discussions with winemakers and yeast purveyors, I did learn that the selection of yeast can impart a difference in the resultant wine.
This review updates another review published in 1986 by Nykanen where he mentions that there are more than 1300 volatile compounds that arise from fermentation by yeast.² It is also known that wines made through single-yeast inoculation differ in sensory properties to those made by spontaneous fermentations.
So, I'm combing through this new review to understand what kinds of aroma and flavor compounds are produced by the yeasts. The first group of compounds are the acetate esters. The acyl group denoted below in red is derived from acetate in the form of acetyl-CoA and the alcohol group is ethanol or a complex alcohol derived from amino acid metabolism to produce the following compounds with their distinctive aromas.

The esters formed during fermentation are dependent upon (1) the concentration of the substrates aceyl-CoA and the alcohol and (2) the activity of the enzymes such as acyltransferases and esterases that are involved in the synthesis of the acetate esters. The review mentions the experiments that were conducted on the genes encoding the following proteins Atf1p, Atf2p, Eht1p, Eeb1p and Iah1p can modulate the formation of acetate esters.
The ethyl esters are medium-chain fatty acids (MCFA), where the alcohol group is ethanol, (highlighted in red below) and the acyl group is derived from activated medium-chain fatty acids. These compounds contribute apple-like aromas.

The article also included a diagram of yeast flavor phenotypes, reproduced below:

This article presents experiments that show how certain genes can modulate the expression of desirable and undesirable characters in wine. Yeasts are not only capable of producing ethanol, they also produce other compounds that make a wine memorable, for better or worse. Selection of the appropriate yeast for the grape variety is another variable that the winemaker must be aware of, when making quality wine.
References:
1. Antonio G. Cordente, Christopher D. Curtin, Cristian Varela, Isak S. Pretorius, Flavor-active Wine Yeast , Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, November 2012, Volume 96, Issue 3, pp 601-618.
2. Nykanen, L., Formation and occurrence of flavor compounds in wine and distilled alcoholic beverages, Am J Enol Vitic, (1986), 37:84–96.
All structures were drawn by the freely available drawing program from ACD Labs called ACD/ChemSketch Freeware.

Flavor-active Wine Yeasts: Sulfur Compounds

I recently blogged about Where Does Hydrogen Sulfide Come From?, placing the blame on the production of this rotten egg smell squarely on the yeast. Yeast metabolism during the fermentation of grapes to wine gives rise not only to hydrogen sulfide but other sulfur containing compounds not necessarily desirable in wine, as shown below:

But not all sulfur compounds are repugnant and we have the yeasts to thank when we drink a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and detect passionfruit, grapefruit, gooseberry, guava and box hedge in the wine. The compounds that give rise to these aromas/flavors are called polyfunctional thiols, (also called mercaptans) and they are shown circled in red in the structures below:

These polyfunctional thiols, 3MH, 3MHA and 4MMP are extremely potent having perception thresholds in the parts per trillion range. In order for a wine to have these aromatic attributes, the winemaker must select the right yeast and the proper nutrient addition to the yeast rehydration media, control fermentation temperature, and ensure that the pre-fermentation operations such as skin contact, oxygen, phenol, and sulfur dioxide content are appropriately managed.¹ Not an easy task!
References:
1. Antonio G. Cordente, Christopher D. Curtin, Cristian Varela, Isak S. Pretorius, Flavor-active Wine Yeast, Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, November 2012, Volume 96, Issue 3, pp 601-618.
All structures were drawn by the freely available drawing program from ACD Labs called ACD/ChemSketch Freeware.

2008 Gorys Crespiello

The other wine that we had with our Oscars, Mole and Wine event was a 2008 Gorys Crespiello. The back of this bottle of wine said that it was 100% Old Vine Vidadillo. I'm still not comprehending. So, I pulled out the trusty book Wine Grapes and found the entry for Vidadillo. The entry there is for Vidadillo de Almonacid and consists of a terse entry comprised of a mere 6 lines. What the entry says is that this is an almost extinct dark-berried variety from the region of Zaragosa in Aragón in northeastern Spain.¹
The label on the back of the bottle also informs us that the variety is almost extinct and that this wine is made from vineyards planted in 1900! The owner of the vineyard and wine maker is Jose Pascual Garcia Romero. It is aged for 24 months in seasoned French and American oak. It is dark, dark, dark, and full of fruit and spice. It was the youthful accompaniment to the 20-something 1991 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva.
References:
J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours, pg 85-87, Allen Lane 2012 ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2.
More information on Vidadillo or Crespiello:
Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity.