Thursday, October 13, 2011

Naked Wine by Alice Feiring

I have to say, I read this book by Alice Feiring three times before I finally got it. On my first reading, I was focussed on the challenge issued by Jason Lett of Eyrie Vineyards in Oregon to Alice to make wine the "natural way"--the way that Alice was advocating regarding the wines that she would drink. The dare did not come to fruition with Jason Lett due to the death of his father, David in October, 2008, however, Kevin Hamel picks up the gauntlet thrown and entices Alice to make wine under his guidance. This is part of the story.
Another thread is Alice's search for Jules Chauvet and his disciple Jacques Néauport. In fact, the title of Alice's book comes from a statement made by Jules Chauvet that "Wine must be naked". I remember reading about Jules Chauvet in Kermit Lynch's book Adventures on the Wine Route and found a picture of him.
It's always helpful for me to see what the person looks like. Chauvet, his disciple Jacques Néauport and Marcel Lapierre are winemakers in Beaujolais and part of Alice's book is about her quest to understand the meaning of "natural" or "naked" wine. Alice travels to France and Spain in search for natural wines and their winemakers. In search for the answer to her quest, she also meets Néauport, the living link to Jules Chauvet who passed away in 1989.
Alice debates the use of lysozyme, reverse osmosis, sulfur, water and whether using them could be considered to yield a "natural wine". She also includes a discussion on the Old World/New World interpretation of "natural wine", put simplistically as "nothing added, nothing taken away."
I can't give away the end---you will need to read it yourself, but it left me a little disheartened.

No comments:

Post a Comment