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Wednesday, December 28, 2011

2009 Bernard Baudry Chinon

I so wanted to like this wine because when I looked at the back label, it was imported by Louis Dressner. The color was a clear ruby, but the aromas were of funky barnyard bordering on...bandaids? Once past the nose, the wine was tasty, but getting past the nose was difficult to do. I couldn't finish the wine but left it in my glass and the smell emanating from my wine glass hung around the kitchen for a long time. Could this be the dreaded Brettanomyces, a yeast commonly called Brett for short? This was another one of the discussion topics in our UC Davis online forum and people had very strong opinions about Brett infection. Most agreed that Brett infection in the winery or winery equipment was not a good thing, but there wasn't the same kind of consensus when it came to Brett infection in the wine. Brett is a Janus faced yeast because it produces both 4-ethylphenol (4-EP) and 4-ethylguiacol (4-EG). 1

The unsavory aromas come from 4-ethylphenol whereas, the more acceptable aromas of leather and spice come from 4-ethylguiacol. Nevertheless, where there is 4-EG, there will be 4-EP.3
This morning, I looked in the appendix of Alice Feiring's book Naked Wine and found that she had recommended it.
References:
1. Principles and Practices of Winemaking, pg. 365.
2. All structures were drawn by the freely available drawing program from ACD Labs called ACD/ChemSketch Freeware.
3. Jamie Goode's Blog, Wineanorak: Brettanomyces is an interesting read.

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