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Saturday, April 5, 2025

Book Review: Napa The Story of an American Eden

In February, we visited Kelly and Bob Foley of Robert Foley Vineyards on Howell Mountain. We got there in the pouring rain but inside the tasting room, Kelly and Bob welcomed us warmly. We spent one hour telling stories and there were many! Bob was telling us about his love of Charbono after tasting an Inglenook Charbono in his formative years. He went to U.C. Davis and got a degree in Enology and Viticulture. Somehow Robert Mondavi's name came up and Bob told us that he went to school with one of the Mondavis and at that time they pronounced their name "Mon-day-vi". It was only after Robert Mondavi began his winery that Robert began to pronounce the family name "Mon-dah-vi".
After our trip to Napa, I decided that I needed to read more about Napa. Full disclosure, I have read Napa The Story of an American Eden once before and wrote about it, but in light of our recent trip to Napa, where we visited Bob and Kelly, I thought that it would be good to refresh myself by reading James Conoway's book again.
My first review was a general overview of the book. Since James Conoway begins by recounting how Jack and Jamie Davis were looking for a property to buy in Napa and then flashes back to some of the history, the read can be a little disorienting. I thought I would try to put some kind of chronology on the book by highlighting what I thought were some interesting facts about Napa.
Interesting tidbits from the book:
  • Napa means grizzly, or harpoon point, or fish, or bounteous place
  • George Calvert Yount, a trapper from North Carolina and the first white settler in Napa Valley, planted Mission vines bought from General Mariano Vallejo in Sonoma in 1838
  • Agoston Haraszthy was a Balkan immigrant who started a winery in Sonoma, called Buena Vista, in 1856
  • Wine was made commercially in Napa in 1858 by John Patchett
  • Prussian immigrant and freethinker, Charles Krug, made wine in Napa three years after Patchett
  • Beringer brothers from Germany, worked for Krug and in the late 1870s constructed their winery, tunneled into the mountain, and eventually built an elaborate seventeen-room mansion called the Rhine House
  • Gustave Niebaum, a Finnish sea captain created an architectural wonder called Inglenook; Inglenook's first harvest was in 1882, Inglenook was one of the first wineries to put “Napa Valley” on its labels; Inglenook’s practice of vintage dating was also uncommon
  • Hamilton Crabb as the owner of the To Kalon vineyard in Oakville
  • J. Leland Stewart was the owner of Souverain Cellars on Howell Mountain
  • Beaulieu Vineyard was owned by Georges de Latour and their enologist was André Tchelistcheff, in 1951 they hired Joe Heitz as assistant winemaker for $325 a month
  • Tom (a du Pont) and his wife Martha May bought a vineyard from the Rhodeses and named it Martha’s Vineyard, in honor of his wife. Martha’s Vineyard produced some fine Napa Valley Cabernet grapes, which were sold to Joe Heitz
I was interested in reading about Joe Heitz because Bob said that he spent one year learning about vineyard and winery work from Joe. In reading the book, I also learned that Robert Mondavi did indeed change the pronunciation of his name to "Mon-dah-vi". There were many other interesting factoids in the book which I am thinking of summarizing in a future post.

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