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Saturday, April 9, 2022

Seven Champagne Grapes

On the evening that we had Paul Bara and Egly Ouriet Champagnes, my husband made a comment that there were 7 champagne grapes. Our friends and I could name only 3: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. In fact, we were at that moment enjoying an Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny Brut Champagne made with 100% Pinot Meunier.
Why do we enjoy 100% Pinot Meunier made Champagnes? Pinot Meunier tends to have higher acidity than Pinot Noir and can achieve similar sugar levels and tends to contribute a youthful fruitiness to the base wine. The longevity of the varietal is not particularly good so that few growers make a totally Pinot Meunier based Champagne. The notable exceptions include Egly-Ouriet, Georges Lavel, Michel Loriot and notably Krug.1
Chardonnay adds acidity and structure to champagne. A champagne made with 100% Chardonnay can be racy. Pinot Noir brings elegance, perfume and body to the blend. Pinot Meunier adds richness and fruit to the blend.
In addition to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, varietals also permitted to be planted in Champagne include Fromenteau, Pinot Blanc, Petite Meslier and Petite Arbanne.2
Fromenteau is also known as Pinot Gris adds fruitiness to the wine in a way similar to Pinot Meunier. Pinot Blanc has a marked floral and honey aroma and produces wines that are full and rich. Petite Meslier has high acidity and some greenness similar to Sauvignon Blanc. Arbanne adds rusticity to the blend but can sometimes taste metallic.
I have never seen or tasted any champagne made from the other permitted varietals. Maybe my husband can procure some?
References:
1. J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours, pg 815-817, Allen Lane 2012 ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2.
2. Laura Maniec, GuildSomm, The Seven Champagne Grapes, 17 February 2011.

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