Visiting Littorai Winery

We were trying to maximize what we did while we were out in California and one of the places that was high on our list was Littorai. Back in Connecticut on a rainy day in early January, my husband was Googling gravity flow wineries and came upon Littorai. I was arranging our books and magazines. I came across the Fall 2011 Practical Winery and Vineyard and saw that the cover story was about Littorai located in Sebastopol. That was when my husband decided to email Ted Lemon to see if we could visit his newly constructed winery based on gravity flow and construction done in phases.
Ted was not available, but we did meet the assistant winemaker John Wilson who spent his time with us discussing the winery construction. On the day that we arrived, it was raining. John mentioned that it hadn't rained since October so this was a welcomed rain. (We had already heard how welcomed the rain was from Greg and Linda Pearl). John gave us a thorough tour of the winery, explaining how the grapes were treated from crush to barrel. He showed us the upper level barrel storage area which doubled as a cold room where the newly harvested grapes were received before processing. He showed us the hay bale construction on the interior of the walls which provided R-50 insulation to keep the winery at a constant temperature. He also showed us how the stainless steel tanks were on quick connect glycol chillers for flexibility during crush. All of this was an invaluable education for us and we appreciated all the time that John took to give us the tour. At the end, we tasted the current release of Littorai wines. All of the care the winery took during the winemaking showed clearly in their excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The Clones are Coming

We finally made a decision for our initial planting! In September, 2011, we went out to California with the intention of meeting with grapevine nurseries that sell ENTAV clones. One of the nurseries that we went to was Mercier California located in Vacaville. At that time, Sebastian gave us a great tour of the Vacaville facility, including a trip to Woodland to see the ENTAV clones.
We worked with Sebastian and Franco via email. We had a lot of questions because we want to use talls grafts for our initial planting. These tall grafts are an experiment because we believe that it will help us to establish our young vines without subjecting them to unnecessary risk of crown gall. There are places in our area that already use tall grafts such as Rob Russell at Westport Rivers Winery so we will not be the pioneers, which is a good thing. After much deliberation, we went to Vacaville to sign the contract and put in our order for Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Auxerrois. We were there to see how Mercier selects their rootstock in the field and Sebastian and Franco showed us how our tall grafts compared with the normal grafts. Our plants will be arriving in the spring of 2013! So much to do to prepare.

Day 2 Visiting the Exhibits at the Sacramento Convention Center

On Day 2 of the Unified Grape and Wine Symposium, we went to see the exhibits in the Convention Center. We began from the second floor, did a quick scan, stopping at a few booths. We looked at bird netting material, concrete floor sealant/protection systems, barrel makers, label makers, winery architects, you name it, they were there in numbers. It was mind numbing, not to mention feet numbing, but all good. My husband connected with some people he knows in silico from Winepress for lunch and we had a good time talking with Brian, Steve, Doyle, Fred and Greg. Brian and Steve are located in Windsor and they are embarking on their first release---that must be exciting for them. We'll be seeing Fred again on the East Coast when he attends the conference in Pennsylvania and Virginia.
We'll be at the exhibits again today, making the most of our time here.

Day 1 of the Unified Wine and Grape Symposium

Tuesday, January 24 was day 1 of the Unified Grape and Wine Symposium at the Sacramento Convention Center. My husband and I registered and made our way to the Hyatt to wait for the start of the first session, "Quality Grapes and Wine in Challenging Climates". Hans Walter Peterson from Cornell was the moderator for a panel consisting of the following people:
     Dr. Richard Snyder from UC Davis
     Dr. Wayne Wilcox from Geneva, New York Cornell Ag Experiment Station
     Dick Boushey from Boushey Vineyards, Washington
     Derek Wilber from Swedish Hill Vineyard, Finger Lakes, New York
     Harry Peterson-Nedry from Chehalem in Oregon
     Francesca Schuler CMO of BevMo!
Dr. Richard Snyder began the session with a discussion on global warming. Dr. Snyder said that carbon dioxide gas is increasing and this has had a measurable affect on the weather. The models that take all the data predict that by 2100, there will be a 3-4 ^oC increase in the temperature. The ramification is that there will be a longer growing season, a chance in precipitation, more droughts, faster growing periods and flooding and salinization of the water.
Dr. Wayne Wilcox from the Cornell Agricultural Experiment station at Geneva, New York spoke at length about the challenges of wet, humid weather on the grape vine and the threat of botrytis infection. Dr. Wilcox mentioned that under those conditions, the vineyard manager can resort to leaf removal at bloom to reduce fruit set, kelp applications, and fungicide applications during bloom and pre-bunch closure.
Dick Boushey from Washington said that reacting early, being prepared for extremes, using technology and keeping up with current research helps in years when the weather conditions are challenging. He mentioned that communication with the buyers of the grapes is important. Dick also mentioned that having diversity in plant varieties, locations, farming techniques and buyers helps in years such as 2011.
Derek Wilber from Swedish Hill Vinyards (Finger Lakes) also spoke of botrytis infection. He mentioned that field tiling every other row, improving air flow, training with narrow trellises and leaf pulling are all cultural practices that can help to prevent devastating botrytis infection. If botrytis is still a problem, then hot pressing can be used to get rid of laccase. Think also of increasing SO₂ on the grapes and in the must, separating the hard press from the low press, using polyclear fining and bentonite fining before fermentation and flash pasteurize to alleviate the problems stemming from botrytis infection.
Derek said that above all, don't rely on Hope. Pick when the fruit is in sound condition and have a plan in place.
Harry Peterson-Nedry from Oregon also reiterated the importance of diversity. He makes 20,000 cases in the Willamette Valley. Harry said don't waste valuable energy by worrying and have contingencies in place.
The last speaker in this session was Francesca Schuler CMO of BevMo! Being in the wine distribution business, Francesca was coming from a different perspective on the vintage 2011. Francesca said to treat the vintage like a brand. Even in years like 2011 when it can be challenging, she recommended that we should:
     1) Celebrate the uncertainty
     2) Have a proactive communication plan
     3) Speak directly to key influencers

Visit with Greg and Linda Pearl of Pearlessence Vineyard Inn

We are in California to attend the Unified Grape and Wine Symposium in Sacramento and came a little earlier, seizing the opportunity to go to a few places that may help us lower the steep learning curve that we find ourselves on, for growing grapes and making wine. My husband did some research on line and arranged for us to stay at the Pearlessence Vineyard Inn in Sebastopol. When he made the arrangements, he mentioned that Greg and Linda sell their grapes and he recalled having a Mueller wine made with grapes from Pearlessence. I keep a folder called "Wine Country" (yes, I am a pack rat), and when I looked through it, hoping to find some maps of Sonoma and Napa, I found a Mueller Wine Club selection sheet from 1999 that offered Pinot Noir Pearlessence Vineyards. Small world.
When we arrived on Thursday, Linda greeted us with an umbrella and apologized for the rain, but it turned out that the area had not seen any rain since October, so it was a much needed event. Linda invited us to join them for a wine tasting the next night at 5:30, tasting the Pinot Blanc that they made and Pinot Noir made from Pearessence grapes by Ehren Jordan of Failla Wines. To accompany the wine, Linda had created a plate for each of us with dried fruit, cheese, nuts, honey and a bread stick, arranged in such a way that it looked like edible art. As a testament to the deliciousness of the wines and the convivial conversation, when we got up from the table, Greg asked us if we were going to dinner. We told Greg that we were wonderfully satiated. When we returned to our room, I was shocked that it was 10:45!
The following day, Greg showed us around his vineyard, giving us a short lesson in pruning techniques. It is clear that the vineyard is being well taken care of. The vines are now twenty years old but they look healthy and happy.
If you ever find yourself in Sebastopol and need a place to stay, we highly recommend Pearlessence Vineyard Inn for a unique experience.

1540 Steinwein Tasting

Unfortunately, no, I didn't taste this wine, but I read about it in Hugh Johnson's, Vintage: The Story of Wine. This is a great book, but it totally reads like a history book with wine playing the role of a major character that surfaces through time and place. I was totally shocked by the Vix Krater, when I read about it in Johnson's book and now, reading about tasting a 1540 Steinwein speaks to the immortality and romance of wine. In 1961, Hugh Johnson tasted the 1540 Steinwein, along with a Rüdesheimer 1857 and the Schloss Johannisberger 1820. Johnson writes that both the Rüdesheimer 1857 and a Schloss Johannisberger 1820 had completely perished, but the 1540 Steinwein was still alive.¹ Johnson writes that the year 1540 was so hot that the Rhine dried up and you could walk across it. It was cheaper to drink wine than to drink water. With a record 12 weeks of relentless sun, the year 1540 was called "The Great Sun Year" and created this remarkable vintage.²
An article on line that gives a history of the cellar beneath the Würzburg Residence called the Bürgerspital’s cellar that housed the 1540 Steinwein is an interesting read with some remarkable photos.³

1. Hugh Johnson Vintage: The Story of Wine published in 1989.
2. Germany's Warmest Year Since 1540 Creates Historic Wines
3. Würzburg’s Weingut Bürgerspital and Steinwein: Bocksbeutel and Silvaner

2009 Kiralyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec

We drank this wine for three consecutive nights with a different meal pairing each night and every time, it worked! When we first opened the bottle, the nose to me was one of cigar! My husband got licorice and we both thought it was luscious green apples and ripe pear. The flavor was of green fruit with a nice acidity for the proper balance. We had potato leek soup one night, Asian teriyaki chicken which paired amazingly well with the Furmint, goat cheese and hard cheeses. Furmint is a white grape of Hungary used to make the Aszú and Esszencia dessert wines.
Thankfully, on the back of the bottle, is the pronunciation guide for Királyudvar (KEE-rye-oohd-var). In English, Királyudvar means "King's Court". As early as the 11th century, Királyudvar supplied the royal court of Hungary with Tokaji (Tokay) wines. I like this type of label which tells me more about the wine that I am drinking. Hi, Richard---we finally tried a Furmint! Thanks for clueing us into this delicious wine.
For more information, here is a link to the Királyudvar Winery.

Jean-Antoine Chaptal

It was only when I started taking the UC Davis Online Course that I became familiar with the term "chaptalization" which means adding sugar to grape must in order to increase the alcohol content in the resulting wine. But, in my total ignorance, it is only now when I'm reading Hugh Johnson's, Vintage: The Story of Wine (yes, still reading it, it is taking me awhile), where I came across Jean-Antoine Chaptal (June 4, 1756 – July 30, 1832) a French chemist who was the Minister of the Interior for Napoleon. Chaptal wrote a book called Traité sur La Vigne. At one time, Traité sur La Vigne, was to be found in every chateau's library where winegrowing was practiced. ¹ When we use the word chaptalization, it recalls the impact that Chaptal had in France and winemaking.
In cross checking this with James M. Gabler's Wine into Words, Chaptal's work is indeed listed there, but very briefly. A little more research on the Internet gives much more information regarding Chaptal. I learned that he is one of 72 people whose name is inscribed on the Eiffel tower. ²
This is really weird and funny. My husband is much more of an Internet guru/surfer than I am and has been telling me about a U.S. ex-pat named Ray Walker who lives in Burgundy and is making wine. While I was looking up Chaptal, I stumbled upon this link: Jean-Antoine Chaptal, and it is Ray Walker's site. Clearly, surfer-hubby was here before me. Ray Walker has some interesting photos from pages in Chaptal's book on this link.

1. Hugh Johnson Vintage: The Story of Wine 1989 Edition
2. Wikipedia Information on Jean-Antoine Chaptal

TTB US Wine Label Requirements

We think we have a name for our winery and now we're looking at the regulations for the wine label. The BATF, or the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, now is called Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau and goes by the shortened, TTB. We purchased the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) on Alcohol, Tobacco Products and Firearms, Parts 1 to 39, but the same information can be found online.
The wine labeling regulations from the TTB are designed to protect the consumer and there are no less than 10 categories which must appear on the wine label to meet the TTB criteria.

This is very good for the consumer but since we are the wine producer, it sure does make us envy the simplicity of the 18th century!

1. TTB Wine Labeling Regulations
2. Early English and French Enamel Wine Labels

Chenin Blanc---the Rodney Dangerfield of White Wines

One of the lessons in the UC Davis online course mentioned that Chenin Blanc is used to make bulk or jug wine in California. In Oz Clarke's Encyclopedia of Grapes, he writes:
It hasn't always been easy being a Loire Valley grape. For years on end nobody elsewhere took much notice of you. If they wanted Sauvignon Blanc they went to New Zealand. If they wanted Chenin Blanc---well, on the whole, they didn't want Chenin Blanc.
With those kinds of recommendations it's hard to develop a liking for Chenin Blanc, but we fell in love with it when we went to Cheeky Monkey, a wonderful restaurant in Narragansett, Rhode Island, which, unfortunately is no longer in operation. (Come back, Cheeky Monkey!) They were serving something called Petit Chenin from Ken Forrester and it went absolutely perfectly with the Matunuck oysters we had. From that day on, we were on the lookout for Chenin Blanc. We had had some Vouvrays before such as a 2009 Laurent Kraft.

While taking the Viticulture portion of the UC Davis Online course, I learned that Paumanok Vineyards located across from us on the North Fork of Long Island was growing and producing highly acclaimed Chenin Blanc. I needed to figure out what kind of rootstock was used in our area and I emailed Charles Massoud of Paumanok. He very kindly replied to me.
Since then, we have tried other Chenin Blanc from Vouvray and have found a new love for Chenin Blanc in the wines made by Gaston Huet's son-in-law, Noel Pinguet. The Domaine Huet Le Haut-Lieu and Le Mont are exquisite expressions of Chenin Blanc but we especially like Le Clos du Bourg.

2005 Chateau La Tour de Bessan

This is a delicious Margaux from an excellent year. The color was very dark purple with aromas of black cherry. The wine was good drinking now but can also be cellared.
The owner-winemaker of Chateau La Tour is Marie-Laure Lurton. Yes, she is descended from the famous winemaking family Lurton. I found information regarding the family history at this site: Lurton A Family of Fine Wines. The tower of Bessan reproduced on the label is a watchtower built by the English during the 15th century.

Unified Wine and Grape Symposium

We decided to sign up for this month's Unified Wine and Grape Symposium to be held in Sacramento on January 24-26. Now that we are getting serious about buying equipment, attending this meeting will be our chance to meet and get to know people that we may be working with in the future.
When I took the Wine Production UC Davis course, one of the first lessons included some information on how to select equipment. I revisited the guidelines for selecting a crusher and this might be applicable for the rest of the equipment that we intend to purchase.
     Ease of Inspection / Cleaning
     Quality of Must
     Rate of Feed vs. Winery Capacity
     Dependability
     Overbuilt
     Compatibility with Other Equipment
     Is Adjustment Possible While Running?
     Service
     Portability¹
More information about the meeting can be found here:
Unified Wine and Grape Symposium 2012
If you are going to the meeting, please leave me a comment and let's see if we can connect and talk about the good 'ole times! Cheers!
1. VID252 Wine Production, Lesson 4, pg. 7.

2008 Domaine de la Chanteleuresie Bourgueil Beauvais

We drank this Loire Bourgueil (Cabernet franc) imported by Kermit Lynch a few evenings ago. The color was a ruby red and the nose and flavor was of black cherries and spice with a nice dose of tannins. We liked this Bourgueil. For a wine retailing for about $15.00, this is a well made and excellent value wine that has the ability to age.
In looking at the Internet for more information on this Bourgueil, I found that the bird on the label is a lark and Domaine de la Chanteleuresie means "place where the larks sings". The winery is located in Touraine, where Cabernet franc is called "Breton". I learned that the winery was founded in 1822 and has been in the family for 7 generations. The current vigneron is Thierry Boucard.
Kermit Lynch's Information on Domaine de la Chanteleuresie.
The following link will take you to the English translated page of Domaine de la Chantel. There is a video clip that will guide you through the vineyard and winetasting at Domaine de la Chantel. I enjoyed watching it and hope to go to the Loire one of these days!

2009 Vietti Roero Arneis

We had this white wine from Vietti and paired it with a cheese souffle. The color was a pale yellow, but the aroma and flavor was amazingly one of anise or licorice.
In Encyclopedia of Grapes, Oz Clarke writes:
Its traditional role was as a softener for Nebbiolo in Barolo and elsewhere, and a few rows would be planted alongside the Nebbiolo for this purpose. Few dedicated vineyards existed until a couple of producers began to take a serious interest in the vine in the 1970s and 1980s.
Oz Clarke also has a photo of the Vietti Roero Arneis label and as a caption, he has: Vietti was one of the companies which rescued Arneis from extinction in the 1970s, and its wine is still one of the best: herby, nutty and dry.

The artwork on the labels are whimsical and very memorable. There is more information on the back of the Vietti bottle that says that some people consider Alfredo Currado to be the father of Arneis. Information regarding the history of the Currado family in Castiglione Falletto can be found here: Vietti Castiglione Falletto, Italy.

Eichhorn-Lorenz Grapevine Phenology

I'm at it again, looking through my notes and came across a download that I did in the Viticulture course regarding the Eichhorn-Lorenz stages of grapevine growth.¹ In 1977 Eichhorn and Lorenz published a paper in which they devised this system of classifying and referring to the various stages of vine growth.

Knowing the proper terminology of the stages of grapevine growth is helpful in understanding when certain diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew are at the highest risk of damage to the grapevine. A terrific guide to grapevine disease can be found here: Identification Guide to the Major Diseases of Grapes. Appendix 2 contains a detailed description as well as photos of each phenological stage.
1. Grapevine Phenology and Data Collection
     Eric T. Stafne  Oklahoma State University
     Kevin Ker   Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute Brock University
2. Vineyard IPM Scouting Report for week of 3 May 2010

The Vix Krater

This is really amazing!¹ I am reading Hugh Johnson's 1989 published book called Vintage: The Story of Wine, my interest in reading his book, is to learn how wine became established in France. I'm not finished reading the book, but I had to share the photo that I saw on page 40. In 1953, a discovery was made in the vast plateau of Mont Lassois, the grave of a 6^th century BC Celtic princess. Found in the grave of the Celtic princess was this vase or krater, identified as being a wine-mixing bowl in the finest bronze, standing seven feet high, having a capacity of 1200 liters! The vase was brought to Vix either from southern Italy or Greece in pieces and assembled.²
A very good article found here, Ophiuchus, states that the Vix Krater is the finest example of Greek Bronze work that exists in the world today.
In 2009, the vase was transported to the newly built museum in the town of Châtillon-sur-Seine. There is a YouTube clip showing the transportation of the Vix Krater to the new museum.³
An excellent article with further details regarding the discovery of the Vix Krater can be found here: New York Times---Greek Treasure in France, published in April, 1984.
1.Vase de Vix à visiter au musée
2. Vintage: The Story of Wine
3. Transfert du Vase de Vix - France 3 Bourgogne (20/05/2009)